Wednesday, December 31, 2008

55) Jumped in the Jungle

There I was, minding my own business when suddenly, WHAM, out of the dark hurtled 8 grams of flying fury - a (probably venomous like everything else in OZ!) green tree frog. It just glommed onto my hand, and would not let go.
(Note: For all of you who want to say (as the tourist who came by said) 'did you get your hands wet first? Did you know that oils and bug dope can kill frogs if you touch them?" Yes I do - but this thing jumped me! and *it* didn't wash it's feet first. Who knows what deadly nerve toxins *I* was exposed to! Luckily, I didn't have any bug dope on, and the frog was safely returned to the wilderness via a rinsing swim in a pond.)

This all began as a harmless jaunt through the Natural Bridges Section of Springbrook Natl Park for a New Years Eve picnic- The river here drops into a 'cave' and emerges from under a bridge of rock.















Waterfall inside the cave.









The park is famous for its Glow worms (the larva of a large mosquito-like fly -Arachnocampa Flava Harrison) which uses webs to catch food and are bioluminescent (see http://maguires.com/glow_worms/about_worms.htm). While we were there tour buses of people showed up (about 300) and tramped through the park having the jungle trees, ecosystem, and glow worm life cycle explained in Japanese, Korean and even English! (photo = Time exposure inside the cave)

Another of the pack of deadly tree frogs - they were all around us! Up in the trees, on the railing, in the vines - we were surrounded! Only quick thinking by Nancy allowed us to escape their insidiuos stalking.....











Check it out - kissed by a frog and became..a prince!?












Back home a Sulphur Crested Cockatoo getting a drink on our back deck
















Holidays here in OZ are pretty relaxed. Apparently, by celebrating New Year on NZ time, we missed out on not one, but two full fireworks shows up on the Broadwater. (one for families at 9:30 another at midnight)

But come the 35 C temps (95 F with 64% humidity) some of us are pretty darned wiped out!)






One more pic of a loggerhead heading back to sea.... Why did we leave Mon Repo again?















Dawn over the Coral Sea

Monday, December 29, 2008

54) Ridin' Herd

A female loggerhead makes her way back to the ocean at dawn after laying her clutch of eggs.


This is the Mon Repos Conservation area - a critical 'dark' beach 1.6 km long that gets a few hundred nesting turtles every year.

























A fabulous ice cream place near Childers (on the way to Mon Repo).








All deep red volcanic soils and acres of sugar cane.....That is "the Hummock" on the Right - local high point and volcanic vent. There are pillow lavas on the coast.





















It was Santa and his helpers at the beach on Christmas Day.












Santa's elfling hits the shore break!














It's OZ -- so of course Christmas dinner came complete with shrimp (prawns actually) on the barbi'!













Turtles are a million dollar tourist industry in the area, so we must try to sway the local businesses that the turtles are an important resource for the local identity. One approach is to get the kids to care about the turtles, in ways such as involving them in helping move nests, or even subtle influences such as this playground. Col's work on pushing for the Turtle Exclusion Devices in trawling nets was an important step in reducing mortality. Hopefully, a local businessman's efforts to accredit turtle-friendly businesses will be successful, as well. Of course the area is under pressure to build more, but light pollution must be controlled. Businesses can help by reducing unnecessary outdoor lights that light the sky above the beaches. Homes can reduce lights that face the ocean, etc.




Here we are moving a nest. If the turtle has nested in a location that is vulnerable to erosion from high tide or cyclones, we pick a new site in a safe location. Through his research, Col has determined that we have a two hour window to move the eggs. After this time, the eggs must not be rotated in any direction, and so we get in the habit of minimizing egg rotation from the beginning. Otherwise the developing turtle is torn from its place inside the shell and killed. With the techniques he has developed, he has found an 85-95% hatching success rate. Much improved from a 100% mortality if a nest is washed away! We count the eggs, which are placed in rows of ten, and then the ranger guided tour groups help us move the eggs, by carrying them to the new nest site we have dug. The newly-laid eggshells are flexible, and resilient. Small children delight in helping "save" the turtles through their assistance. This is an attempt to jump start the breeding population - the Mon Repos beach is dark sand - therefore warm. Turtle gender is 100% determined by nest temperature and this beach produces mostly females. By saving nests, the program hopes to increase the female population and bring the total loggerhead population up out of the risky numbers it is at.



Loggerhead at dawn. Its a weird work schedule - shifts all night patrolling the beach and processing turtles, sleep and swim and check gear all day.






A few priority turtles get special treatment - this one is on the way back to the lab for examination. There is so much that is unknown about the breeding behavior of the turtles that we need to learn all we can. Long term tracking and studies of turtles is critical to their survival.









A turtle suffers the indignity of a laproscopy, where we're trying to learn more about "what makes them tick."
















Nancy and Dirk ridin' herd on a 80kg loggerhead




Heading back to the surf...












A bonus! We didn't expect to see hatchlings this early in the year, but for our last night, we had two nests to keep an eye on. Sure enough, just before the end of our shift, they emerged! A mesh corral keeps the hatchlings contained while we gathered them up and take them back to the lab for measuring and photo documentation. They're amazingly strong little critters, eager to start their life journey. They squirm and flail away with their flippers - they are like little mechanical wind-up toys.

Hatchlings come out at night - partly to minimize predation under cover of darkness, but also due to sand temperature. These sands get to 55 degrees C (131 F) - hatchlings would be well cooked before they ever made the surf!





The new lights at Bargara shopping center are the big new risk. Even though they are 8 KM away they light up the salt spray and clouds and really mask the horizon. When the shopping center opened last year there were hatchlings walking parallel to the surf, heading for the lights. Some businesses have been cooperative and have been turtle friendly, others not so much so. Don't shop at the Woolies in Bargara unless they turn off their parking lot lights after closing!











Loggerhead hatchlings







We release them to make their way on their own. It's important that they make their own way down the beach from where their nest is, because they make an imprint of the earth’s magnetic field of the area, so they can return some 30 years from now to the same general area to lay their own eggs in the sand. Run, little turtles, run! We wish you a safe journey!

A nice article describing the Mon Repos turtles:
http://travelinsider.qantas.com.au/queensland_amphibious_landings.htm







An army of soldier crabs. If you were patient hundreds would appear up out of concealment in the mud














Camp motto - "if it moves, grab it and tag it!"

A bearded lizard....










Dawn

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

53) A Herd of Turtles for Christmas

So what does one do for Christmas in OZ?

Go herd Turtles!!!

Really!!!

We have headed N to Mon Repos Turtle Rookery, a Queensland conservation area and research lab. It is run by Dr. Cole Limpus, who has been researching marine turtles since 1968 (he is a nuclear physicist in a former life). The 22 km section of coast here is the nesting ground for 50% of the eastern population of of marine turtles. We have been here three days – we are now vampires – starting work at dark and going through to dawn (2 different shifts). We walk the beach to insure we see and record every turtle that comes ashore. – check to see if she lays eggs, mark the spot, get tag numbers (or apply them if she is a new turtle), get measurements, sometimes relocate nests if it is in a spot subject to erosion.

The marine turtle population here is listed as endangered – The most common Loggerhead has seen a 70% decline in population in 1 generation. The endemic Flatbacks are only 4% of the turtles nesting here – also a huge population drop. Mostly due to killing by humans, destruction of nests by feral pigs and foxes and massive kills in prawn nets (though that has been almost eliminated by the introduction of TEDS--turtle exclusion devices in AU fishing fleets – but not Indonesian fleets). A major problem is coastal lights from shopping malls, houses, car lots. The light attracts the turtles and confuses the hatchlings to the point that they will actually head away from the ocean when they hatch. Nesting has dramatically shifted away from formerly good beaches near town to ‘dark’ beaches that have much less successful hatches due to thin sand conditions. The other new problem is ghost nets – kilometer long nets that have been abandoned or lost but still drift through the ocean entangling fish and turtles. On the West coast of QLD, cyclones will wash nets ashore with dozens of entangled turtles.

We are about 50% of the way through the nesting season and Mon Repos has seen over 200 nesting tutles including a few of the unusual Greenbacks. We have been lucky enough to see 2 Flatbacks – they get the whole treatment – weighing, egg counting and measuring, laproscopy – all in sight of the guided tour groups who come here to see the turtles come ashore and nest. We have had three nights with the maximum number (300 people) who will be taken out in small groups. The little kids love getting to help move eggs from the precariously placed nests to safer areas. Good future conservationists!

So every night we walk the beach in the dark – when a turtle comes ashore you stop dead and wait till she gets up in the dunes. In 30-45 minutes she has dug an egg chamber and started laying up to 130 eggs. At this point they are pretty settled and we can turn on lights and start recording all the data. Come morning, we do data entry into the database, try and sleep in the heat, go for a swim. We still have places to explore – some kayaking to do, maybe get the kite out if the wind comes up.

Come dark – we are out again, doing what we can to help save these amazing creatures – so lumbering on land, such graceful swimmers in the water.











We will post more pictures later - we are on a really slow Internet Cafe connection that keeps collapsing on the uploads. Stay tuned!

Friday, December 19, 2008

52) Winging Back to Dreamtime


Post conference in the Garden at the Musee de Rodin - I am full of good ideas! I have a day to trapse around Paris in the drizzle and see some of the sights.



They have dreaming of Down Under even in Paris!












A rather scary old guy!
















Michel Cluizel - according to the NYT Le Tour du Chocolate, this is one of best chocolate shops in Paris.


















A pretty cool projected image (moving) onto a big semi-permanent tourist ferris wheel in the center of the city.
















Installation art shows about town. These words were crawling all over the building













Two strips of foil, spinning and illuminated - the lite changed and this changed colors like a giant soap bubble!























A blue Eiffel Tower in the fog..











Me and Mona - imperturbable (but just not very close)



















Top video
ICIS social event at a musee of carnival rides, old games, and very classic human powered rides
*that thing was FAST!)

Bottom video
A century old 'pin-ball' game - spin the top and hope it rings the bell!